Skylar,
     That's a good question.  I would start by measuring the fin dimensions as they are now.  This will give you some experience.  Go ahead and measure your System 8 fin as well.  Then if your settings are not real close to my numbers, go ahead and loosen all three screws on the side of your fin block.  Get your depth setting close by using the rear of the two adjuster screws on the top of your fin block.  If you need the fin to be deeper, turn the screw clockwise or visa versa for a shallower fin.  When ever you turn one of the adjusting screws counterclockwise you will need to physically push the fin to get the change to happen.  Once you get the depth setting close, move on to the DFT setting.  This is done by turning the adjuster screw on the back of the fin block closest to the tail of the ski and not on the top.  This is a tough setting to measure so take your time and get it as close as you can.  Once you have the DFT setting where you want, move on to the Length measurement.  This is changed with the front adjuster screw on the top of the fin block. 

Now that you have the numbers close, go back and check the depth.  It will have changed if you made changes to the other settings.  Get this setting close again and move along to the DFT setting.  Once this is where you want, tighten the rear clamping screw on the side of your fin block.  Go back and check both your depth and DFT after tightening to double check that it hasn't changed.  If it has, loosen it and make adjustments until you have it right.  Then move on to the final stage which is to check your Length measurement.  Make changes as necessary and then tighten the front two clamping crews on the side of your fin block.  Now that all three screws are tight, take your final fin measurements. 

If you need to only change one setting on your fin, here is a quick guide to which clamping screws you need to loosen to make the change. 

Depth- loosen the rear and middle clamping screws on the fin block.  By leaving the front screw tight, you will not lose your length or dft.

Length- Loosen the front and middle clamping screws on the fin block and leave the rear screw tight.

DFT- you must loosen all 3 clamping screws.

Another important note is that when I say loosen the clamping screw, I mean break the screw loose but keep it slightly snug.  Once the screw pops, there is usually no reason to loosen it more.

Also, you should have wing angle gauges in order to put your wing back on at the appropriate angle.  If you do not have this tool, I would recommend tracing the outline of the wing on the fin blade with a pencil so that you can put it on close to where you want.

Have patience when adjusting.  When I first started, it would take me close to an hour set up a fin.  Even now, I have had instances where its taken me almost that much time.  Enjoy the process!

More on adjusting your fin, including pictures at http://www.proskicoach.com/gear/fin_measurement/

Well, I busted out the calipers and it turns out that they're 6" calipers. I'm going to go out and buy some 8" calipers but I noticed that the "fin measurement" article says I'll need an 8" dial  caliper. Is there any reason not to use a digital caliper? This may be a dumb question but I just want to make sure. Thanks for all your help!

More about skiing in Utah with Scot Chipman here:
http://www.proskicoach.com/forum/viewto … 2171#p2171

The battery is the only downside to the digital caliper. Seems like it always turns on in the case like Scot mentioned. Works great until u need it and dont have a battery :-)

Nice tip Lee. Just watch out for your caliper getting bumped around and that "on" button getting pressed by the case. I think that's what always happened to my digi-cal