I am going to my first big dawg tourney and will be first time behind zero off ,
With being light on line like your technique is that I'm trying to emulate, should one be better to try?
I've heard A is more off the bouy and c is softer but holds acceleration longer?
any thoughts other than shut up and ski?
i just want to pick the right one and forget about it.
I use "B" and it feels great to me. "C" will give the most gas off the buoy, so I would say that most closely resembles perfect pass. "A" gives the most delayed gas out of the buoy. I find that the biggest key to zero off is to forget you are skiing behind it. Just go out there and do what you do. Good luck!
how about an adjustment to PP to make it feel more like Zero Off, particularly into the 55/gates. Behind JP's setup, I really feel a soft pull into gates.
Can this be adjusted with Kx Px settings?
ZO comes into the course about a 1/2 mile an hour slower than PP. If you can develop a pull out point and distinctive gate for each system, that will solve a lot of the differences in how they feel. Once you get the rhythm on the gate the way you like it, the rest will fall into place.
I won't be much help on the zero off, but I did just get off your lake and it was perfect tonight. Even with the wind, it was still glass. I'm trying out a new ski and I need to get with you to help set it up for me. Good luck in the tourney and let me know how it goes!! -- Micah
If I were to take a guess on how to make PP Classic work more like zero off I would say run (-KX) and a PX of 10 or 15. You will obviously need a switch to run the PX settings. This will NOT be the same as zero off, but will give some similar feelings.
I'm attaching an email that Freddy Krueger(ZO rep) sent to Bob Mayhew(one of our chief drivers and MC promo team in the Houston area) this week.
I have a question. Which slalom mode is the most aggressive and which is the softest A,B or C ? It works a little different with ZO than PP, but let me see if I can make it make sense. In PP we are used to having a "KX" value that makes the pull stronger or weaker. If you go to "+" the boat gets stronger "-" and the boat gets weaker. With Zero Off the letter "B" is comparable to "normal" in PP. And what that means is that if you could map the way the gain settings come on the skier off the buoy and then how they release the skier into the ball, the graph would look like a "bell curve". So the boat will release the skier into the buoy with the same intensity it picks the skier up off the ball.
The letter "A" is often referred to as the more aggressive pull setting, but in reality the "A" setting is more aggressive off the buoy when you start your pull, but will release you into the buoy the same way as the letter "B".
The letter "C" is exactly the opposite of letter "A". So letter "C" will pick you up off the buoy the same as letter "B", but will release you more aggressively into the buoy so you feel more free into the ball.
Now the obvious question is, "why not just do stronger or weaker"? The reason for this is because the system is based on speed and not on an RPM pull just going stronger or weaker with the gain settings didn't seem to fit well with the athletes doing the early testing. In fact it was a unanimous decision to go with the system as it currently is based. Later we found that the reason this works is because different skiers want to get to different widths on the boat and these 3 settings are most likely to allow the skier to move to different places on the boat.
Where should you start? Start with the letter "B" and then try "A", last try "C". Most of the pro skiers I am finding like either "B" or "A", but we have the occasional "C".
For 2008 the gain setting for A,B, and C are lower than they were for 2007 and thus the pull is more forgiving and more comparable to what we are all used to. I think those of you who tried ZO last year and have tried it again with the new gains, will really appreciate the improvements.
Last edited by 2gofaster (Wed, Jun 11, 2008 5:51 AM)
http://www.thewaterskiforum.com/cgi-bin … read=53012
I wouldn't dig to deep into this thread, the meat is in this post.
The graphs to a pretty good job of conveying what the settings do.
For me, the quickest way to understand the 1,2,3 setting is with a little bit of math.
Throttle is applied along a power function. The area under the curve is constant, but you
can change the shape of the cuve with 1,2,3. Setting 1 gives you the lowest maximum and the
extremes push outward: you will get the smallest ammount of throttle applied over a longer time).
Setting 3 gives you the highest maximum and the extremes pull in: you will get the largest ammount
of throttle applied over a shorter period of time.